How to Force Bulbs This Winter

Bringing Spring Indoors

October 5th, 2025

A Maritime Winter Doesn’t Mean Gardening Has to Stop

By the time February rolls around, most New Brunswick gardeners are itching to dig into something green again. The garden’s asleep, seed catalogues are dog-eared, and even the hardiest evergreens outside are coated in frost.

That’s where forcing bulbs comes in — a small miracle for gardeners who want to coax a little spring magic indoors.

At Scott’s Nursery, we’ve been helping local gardeners bring colour into their homes through winter bulb forcing for decades. Whether you live along the coast where it’s damp and mild or inland where the snow piles up, forcing bulbs is one of the easiest and most rewarding winter gardening projects you can do.

What Does “Forcing Bulbs” Mean — and Why Do It?

“Forcing” is just a fancy way of saying you’re tricking spring-flowering bulbs into thinking winter has come and gone — all from the comfort of your kitchen or basement.

In nature, bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths spend the winter underground, resting through months of cold before waking up in spring. When we “force” bulbs, we recreate those seasonal cues: a cold period (to mimic winter), followed by warmth and light (to mimic spring).

The payoff? Fragrant blooms in mid-winter, when the rest of the world is still frozen solid.

Why gardeners love it

It’s a mental boost during long Maritime winters.
You get fresh blooms for your home or as thoughtful gifts.
It’s educational for kids — a hands-on look at plant life cycles.
It helps you learn timing and patience, skills every gardener needs.

Scott’s Tip: Want flowers in February? Start chilling your bulbs in October or early November. That gives them the 12–16 weeks of cold they need before blooming time.

The Best Bulbs to Force

Not all bulbs are created equal for forcing — some handle our Maritime conditions better than others. Here’s what we recommend locally at Scott’s Nursery.

Beginner-friendly options:
(No chilling required)

Paperwhites (Narcissus papyraceus)

Perfect for beginners.

Can bloom in 4–6 weeks.

Just add water — literally.

These bulbs grow well in pebbles and a little water in a glass vase.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum)

Bold, tropical, and dramatic.

Huge flowers in red, pink, and white.

Start to bloom 6–10 weeks after planting.

A great choice for bright windows and winter décor.

Chill first (12–16 weeks):

Tulips

Choose Triumph or Single Early varieties.

Hyacinths

Fragrant and compact, perfect for tabletops.

Daffodils

Reliable and cheerful; great for beginners.

Crocus & Muscari

For gardeners who like variety in color and size.

Scott’s Tip: Forcing bulbs doesn’t shorten their lives — if treated right, many can be replanted outdoors and bloom again in future years.

How to Force Bulbs Indoors (Step-by-Step)

This is where the magic happens. Think of it as a mini version of spring, built in four stages.

Step 1: Choose and Prepare Your Bulbs

Start with top-quality bulbs. Look for firm, heavy bulbs with no soft spots or mold. The healthier the bulb, the stronger the bloom.

Use shallow pots or decorative containers (with drainage holes!) and fill them with a loose potting mix or bulb fibre. Plant the bulbs close together — almost touching — with their pointed ends up and tips just peeking out of the soil.

Water thoroughly once, then let them drain.

Pro Tip: Write the bulb name and planting date on a small tag or popsicle stick. You’ll thank yourself later when you have several varieties chilling at once.

Step 2: Chill the Bulbs (Simulate Winter)

This is the key stage. Most spring bulbs need 12–16 weeks at 2–9°C to grow roots and prep for flowering.

You can chill bulbs in:

An unheated basement
A cold garage or shed (if it stays above freezing)
A fridge (just don’t store them near fruit — ethylene gas can damage them)

Keep the soil slightly moist but never soggy. Overwatering is the number one cause of bulb rot.

You’ll know the bulbs are ready when you see roots at the pot’s drainage holes and small shoots starting to appear.

Common Mistake: Checking too often! Resist the urge to disturb them every few days — they like peace and cold darkness.

Step 3: Bring Them Into the Light (Simulate Spring)

Once your shoots are about an inch tall, it’s time to move them to a bright, cool spot.

Start by placing them in a bright but indirect light for a few days. After that, move them into full sun — a bright south or west-facing window is ideal. Keep them at 15–18°C and rotate the pots daily so stems grow straight.

You’ll notice buds forming within a week or two.

Pro Tip: For sturdier stems, keep the room cool and bright. Too much heat leads to floppy growth.

Step 4: Enjoy the Bloom!

In about 2–4 weeks, you’ll have vibrant blooms — a pop of colour when everything outside is still under snow.

Keep the soil evenly moist, turn pots for even growth, and enjoy the scent and colour that fills your space.

Forced bulbs make beautiful centrepieces or thoughtful gifts — especially in those gloomy weeks before spring arrives.

Scott’s Tip: For longer-lasting blooms, move them to a cooler room (around 10°C) overnight. It slows the aging process and helps flowers last longer.

Did You Know?

You don’t have to stop at one kind of bulb when forcing! Try layering multiple bulb varieties in the same pot — it’s like a lasagna for gardeners.

Here’s how:

1. Start with larger bulbs like tulips or daffodils at the bottom (they need the most depth).

2. Add a layer of soil, then place mid-sized bulbs such as hyacinths or crocus above.

3. Finish with smaller bulbs like grape hyacinths (muscari) or snowdrops near the surface.

Each type grows at its own pace, creating staggered blooms that stretch the colour and fragrance over several weeks — a real winter showpiece for your windowsill.

Scott’s Tip: Layering works best in pots that are at least 8–10 inches deep and have good drainage. Choose bulbs with similar chilling requirements so they’re all ready to bloom around the same time.

What to Do After They Bloom

Once the show’s over, don’t toss the bulbs right away.

How you treat them after flowering depends on the type:

Amaryllis

Cut off the flower stalk but keep watering and feeding the leaves until they yellow naturally.

Let the bulb rest in a cool, dark spot for 8–10 weeks before starting again next season.

Tulips, Daffodils & Hyacinths

Snip off faded blooms to prevent seed formation.

Continue watering until leaves yellow and wither — this recharges the bulb.

When the soil thaws in spring, plant them outdoors. They may skip a year, but many will rebloom naturally with time.

Common Mistake: Composting bulbs too soon.

Give them that recovery period — bulbs are built to store energy for the long haul.

Local Timing Tips for New Brunswick Gardeners

Because our Maritime winters are long and variable, timing is everything. Here’s a local rule of thumb:

Desired Bloom Time

Late January

February

March

When to Start Chilling

Mid-October

Late October

November

Example Bulbs

Hyacinths, Paperwhites

Tulips, Daffodils

Crocus, Muscari

Keep in mind: homes with woodstoves or forced-air heat may dry out bulbs faster.

If your air is dry, place a small tray of water with pebbles near the pots to boost humidity.

Scott’s Tip: Maritime homes often have cooler entryways or mudrooms — those are perfect for chilling bulbs naturally before bringing them into warmth.

Wrapping Up: Your Winter Garden, Indoors

Forcing bulbs isn’t just a gardening trick — it’s a small act of optimism. Watching those first green shoots push through soil while snow falls outside is a reminder that spring always comes back.

With a bit of patience and the right timing, you can fill your home with color, fragrance, and life — all before the crocuses even poke through outside.

Ready to start? 🌼
Visit Scott’s Nursery Ltd. in Lincoln, NB to browse our wide selection of bulbs perfect for winter forcing. Whether you’re trying it for the first time or fine-tuning your technique, our team is happy to help you choose, chill, and coax those blooms to life.

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