Carnivorous Plants 101

The Beginner’s Guide to Caring for Carnivorous Houseplants

June 7th 2025

If you've ever stood in front of a Venus flytrap at a garden centre and thought, "This is so cool, but I’d probably kill it," — you’re not alone. Carnivorous plants can seem like exotic, high-maintenance creatures, but the truth is, with a little understanding, they’re surprisingly easy to care for — and incredibly rewarding.

 

These fascinating plants evolved in nutrient-poor environments, developing clever ways to trap and digest insects. But don’t worry — that doesn’t mean you need to feed them steak or catch flies all day. In fact, many carnivorous plants are perfectly suited for life on your windowsill.

 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to help your new bug-eating buddy not just survive, but thrive. From watering and lighting to feeding and winter rest, this is your go-to resource for confident carnivorous plant care.

 

Whether you’ve just picked one up at Scott’s Nursery (great choice!) or you're thinking about diving into this wild little world, we’re here to make sure you succeed — with warmth, encouragement, and practical advice every step of the way.
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What Are Carnivorous Plants?

Carnivorous plants are a bit like nature’s sci-fi experiment — beautiful, unusual, and incredibly smart. Instead of relying solely on soil for nutrients like most plants, they’ve evolved to capture and digest insects to survive in harsh, nutrient-poor environments like bogs and wetlands.

 

But don’t let their wild origins intimidate you — many carnivorous plants are very adaptable to home life, and they make stunning, conversation-starting additions to any indoor plant collection.

 

Here are four popular types of carnivorous houseplants you’ll likely come across:

Venus Flytrap

(Dionaea muscipula)

 

Probably the most famous carnivorous plant, the Venus flytrap has jaw-like traps that snap shut when tiny hairs are triggered by unsuspecting bugs. Each trap can close a few times before it dies back, so it’s best not to "play" with it.

 

Great for: Bright windowsills, people who want something interactive.

Pitcher Plants 

(Nepenthes & Sarracenia)

 

These plants have tube-like "pitchers" filled with digestive fluid. Insects are lured in by nectar, fall into the pitcher, and are slowly broken down.

Nepenthes are tropical and vine-like with hanging pitchers.

Sarracenia are North American natives with upright pitchers and require winter dormancy.

 

Great for: Humid conditions, hanging baskets, and sunny spots.

Sundews 

(Drosera)

 

Covered in glistening, sticky hairs, sundews attract and trap insects like flypaper. Once caught, the plant slowly curls its leaves to digest the meal.

 

Great for: People who want something delicate yet deadly (to bugs!) and love watching plants "move."

Butterworts

(Pinguicula)

 

These subtle beauties have fleshy, sticky leaves that trap gnats and other tiny bugs. They often bloom with lovely purple flowers, making them popular among houseplant lovers.

 

Great for: Bright windowsills and fungus gnat control in other houseplants.

Each type has its own personality and preferences, but they all have one thing in common: they thrive when you understand their natural needs. And that’s exactly what the rest of this guide will help you do.
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Watering: The #1 Key to Their Health

If there’s one golden rule for growing carnivorous plants, it’s this: never water them like your other houseplants. These plants are sensitive to minerals and chemicals found in tap water — and the wrong kind of water can harm them more than anything else.

 

Let’s break down exactly how to keep their thirst quenched the right way:

No Tap Water, Please

 

Carnivorous plants evolved in low-nutrient environments. Tap water, which often contains chlorine, fluoride, and dissolved minerals (salts), can build up in the soil and damage the roots over time.

Instead, use one of the following:

•  Distilled water (available at most grocery stores)

•  Rainwater (clean and chemical-free)

•  Reverse osmosis (RO) water (filtered to remove minerals)

 

Tip: If you're not sure whether your water is safe, it probably isn't. When in doubt, go distilled!
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The Tray Method: Let Them Sip from Below

 

Most carnivorous plants prefer moist — not soggy — soil. The easiest way to manage this is the tray method:

1. Place your plant’s pot in a shallow tray or saucer.

2. Keep about 1–2 cm (½–1 inch) of water in the tray.

3. Let the plant absorb water through the bottom drainage holes.

 

This mimics their natural boggy habitat and helps prevent root rot. Just remember to refill the tray as needed, especially during warmer months.
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Watering Schedule

 

•  Spring & Summer (active growing season): Keep the tray filled consistently.

•  Fall & Winter: Water less frequently, especially if your plant goes dormant (we’ll cover that soon). Let the soil stay damp, but not waterlogged.

Some species like Nepenthes (tropical pitcher plants) prefer top watering and slightly drier conditions than Venus flytraps or sundews. For them:

 

•  Mist the soil surface occasionally.

•  Keep the humidity up (more on that later).
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Watch for These Watering Red Flags

 

•  Crispy traps or leaves? You may be under-watering.

•  Funky smell or blackened base? You may be over-watering or using tap water.

•  Salt crust on the soil? That’s mineral build-up – a sign you need to switch water sources.

When you water them right, carnivorous plants reward you with bright colors, healthy growth, and active traps. It’s a simple habit — but it’s the foundation of everything else you’ll do.
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Lighting: Helping Them Soak Up the Sun

Sunlight isn’t just optional for carnivorous plants — it’s essential. These bug-eating beauties rely on light to grow, trap prey, and stay vibrant. And if you’re keeping them indoors, you’ll need to be intentional about where and how they get their daily dose of rays.

How Much Light Do Carnivorous Plants Need?

 

Most carnivorous plants prefer bright light for at least 6 hours a day, though some tropical species are a bit more flexible.

Plant Type

 

Venus Flytrap

 

Sundews

 

Pitcher Plants

 

 

Butterworts

Light Preference

 

6–8 hours of direct sun or strong grow light

 

Bright light, with some direct sun preferred

 

Nepenthes: bright, indirect light
Sarracenia: full sun

 

Bright, indirect light; some tolerate lower light

Rule of thumb: If you're growing indoors, a south- or west-facing window is ideal. East-facing can work too with supplemental lighting.

Using Grow Lights Indoors

 

If your space doesn’t get enough natural light (especially during Canadian winters!), a full-spectrum LED grow light can keep your plant healthy and happy.

 

Here’s how to use one effectively:

 

•  Choose a full-spectrum bulb designed for plant growth.

•  Position the light 6–12 inches above your plant.

•  Keep it on for 12–14 hours per day during the growing season.

•  Use a timer to create a consistent light cycle.

 

Grow lights are especially helpful for Venus flytraps and sundews, which show better color and trap production under strong, steady light.

Signs of Light Trouble

 

Too little light:

•  Traps or leaves become pale or soft

•  Slow or leggy growth

•  Lack of sticky dew on sundews

 

Too much direct light (for some Nepenthes):

•  Leaf edges burn or turn crispy

•  Pitchers dry up quickly

Tips for Indoor Lighting Success

 

•  Rotate your plant every week or two for even light exposure.

•  Keep windows clean — it really does make a difference!

•  If placing outdoors in summer, acclimate slowly to full sun over a few days.

With the right lighting, you’ll see your plant thrive — bright colors, active traps, and healthy new growth are all signs it’s soaking up what it needs.
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Feeding: Yes, They Eat Bugs

(But Not Too Many!)

Feeding your carnivorous plant can feel like a wild science experiment — and honestly, it kind of is! But despite the drama, these plants don’t need frequent feeding, and too much food can actually do more harm than good.

 

Here’s how to keep feeding simple, safe, and satisfying (for both you and the plant):

Do You Have to Feed Them?

 

If your plant lives outside during the warmer months, nature will usually do the feeding for you. But if it lives indoors all year, you might need to offer the occasional snack — especially for Venus flytraps, sundews, and some pitcher plants.

 

•    Indoor-only plants: Feed once every 2–4 weeks, depending on growth and light levels.

•    Outdoor plants: Often catch enough food naturally and don’t need additional feeding.

What Can You Feed Them?

 

Stick to small, high-protein insects — things they’d catch on their own in the wild. Here are a few safe options:

Good Choices

 

Live or dried flies

 

Mealworms

 

Bloodworms

 

Fungus gnats

Notes

 

Rehydrated dried flies work great

 

Cut into small pieces for tiny traps

 

Often used by aquarium owners

 

Commonly caught by sundews & butterworts

Pro tip: If using dried insects, rehydrate them in a drop of water before offering.

How to Feed Them Properly

 

Each plant type "eats" a little differently:

 

•    Venus Flytrap: Gently place a bug inside the open trap. Touch the inside hairs twice with tweezers or a toothpick to trigger closing. The trap won’t seal unless it feels movement — it’s how it avoids false alarms.

 

•    Sundews: Simply drop a bug onto the sticky leaves. They’ll curl slowly and digest it.

 

•    Pitcher Plants: Drop small insects directly into the pitcher. Avoid overfilling.

 

•    Butterworts: No need to feed manually unless you’re feeling generous — they catch gnats on their own!

 

Always use clean tweezers or tools — hygiene matters to prevent mold or bacteria.

What NOT to Feed Them

 

•    No meat (chicken, beef, etc.)

•    No cheese, fish food, or pet kibble

•    No human food of any kind

•    No insects larger than the trap or pitcher

 

Feeding the wrong thing can cause rot, stress, or even kill the trap.

Feeding can be a fun way to interact with your plant, but remember: carnivorous plants are slow eaters. One small bug every few weeks is plenty. Don’t overdo it, and you’ll have a happy little hunter on your hands.
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The Right Growing Medium:
No Regular Potting Soil Allowed

This part surprises most beginners: carnivorous plants can’t grow in regular potting soil. In fact, the stuff that makes most houseplants happy — rich soil, fertilizers, compost — will harm or even kill your bug-eating beauties.

 

That’s because these plants evolved in low-nutrient, acidic environments, and they rely on insects (not soil) for their food.

 

Here’s how to give them the right foundation.

The Golden Rule: Low-Nutrient, Acidic, and Airy

 

The perfect growing medium is:

 

•    Nutrient-free

•    Well-draining but moisture-retentive

•    Acidic in pH

 

The most common and reliable mix is:

 

•    50% sphagnum peat moss + 50% perlite

 

This blend mimics the boggy, mineral-poor soils carnivorous plants love. It holds moisture without suffocating the roots.

Ingredient Breakdown

 

•    Sphagnum peat moss: Provides structure and holds moisture. Be sure it's pure, with no added fertilizers or wetting agents.

 

•    Perlite: Creates air pockets for drainage. Look for horticultural-grade perlite, not miracle-grow-infused versions.

 

•    Optional: Use long-fibered sphagnum moss (LFS) for some pitcher plants or as a top dressing for Venus flytraps.

Avoid These Like the Plague

 

•    Standard potting mixes (Miracle-Gro, etc.)

•    Compost or manure blends

•    Vermiculite (can hold too much moisture)

•    Fertilized peat or coco coir

•    Anything labeled “enriched” or “nutrient-rich”

 

Even a little bit of fertilizer in the soil can burn their roots.

Container Tips

 

•    Use plastic or glazed ceramic pots with drainage holes.

•    Avoid terra cotta or unglazed clay — these leach minerals into the soil over time.

•    Go for pots at least 4–6 inches deep, especially for Venus flytraps and sundews.

Getting the soil right is one of the easiest ways to set yourself up for success. Once potted in the correct mix, your plant will focus on what it does best — growing, trapping, and thriving.
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When & How to Repot: Refreshing Your Plant’s Home

Like all houseplants, carnivorous plants benefit from a fresh start now and then. Over time, their soil can become compacted or mineral-laden, and roots can outgrow their space.

 

Repotting your plant every 1–2 years helps keep it healthy and vigorous.

When Should You Repot?

 

Early spring is best — just before the active growing season begins.

If you see any of these signs, it’s time to repot:

•    Soil is hard, compacted, or moldy

•    Mineral buildup on soil surface

•    Plant has outgrown its pot

•    Traps are small, slow-growing, or struggling despite good care

 

Avoid repotting during dormancy (late fall through winter for some species), as the plant is in rest mode and won’t recover as quickly.

 

What You’ll Need:

 

•    Fresh carnivorous plant mix (50/50 peat and perlite)

•    New pot (plastic or glazed ceramic with drainage holes)

•    Scissors (for trimming dead leaves or roots)

•    Clean hands or tools to minimize contamination

Step-by-Step Repotting Guide

 

Gently remove the plant from its current pot.
Hold the base and tap or squeeze the sides of the pot to loosen it. 

Be gentle — carnivorous roots are fine and shallow.

 

Shake off old soil and inspect the roots.
Trim any dead or blackened roots. Healthy roots are white or tan and threadlike.

 

Prepare the new pot.
Fill the bottom with your damp peat/perlite mix (moistened with distilled or rainwater).

 

Position the plant in the center.
Hold it in place while you gently add soil around the root ball. Don’t press too hard — just enough to anchor it.

 

Water well from below.
Use the tray method to help the soil settle without compacting it.

Post-Repotting Care

 

•    Keep the plant in bright but indirect light for the first few days.

•    Don’t feed it right away — give it time to adjust.

•    Resume normal watering and light after about a week.

 

Repotting may seem like a big chore, but once you do it once, you’ll feel way more confident. Plus, your plant will reward you with fresh growth and renewed energy.

Understanding Dormancy: Letting Them Rest for Winter

If your carnivorous plant suddenly starts losing leaves, turning brown, or stops growing in the fall... don’t panic! It’s not dying — it’s just going to sleep.

 

Many carnivorous plants — particularly Venus flytraps, Sarracenia (North American pitcher plants), and some sundews — naturally enter a winter dormancy period. Think of it like hibernation. They slow down, conserve energy, and prepare for a fresh start in spring.

Which Plants Need Dormancy?

Requires Dormancy

 

Venus flytrap (Dionaea)

 

Sarracenia (hardy pitchers)

 

Temperate sundews (e.g. D. filiformis)

Does Not Require Dormancy

 

Tropical pitcher plants (Nepenthes)

 

Butterworts (Pinguicula)

 

Some tropical sundews

If you’re unsure, ask where you purchased the plant (like Scott’s Nursery!) or look up the specific species.

When Dormancy Happens

 

Starts: Late fall (around November)

Lasts: About 3 months

Ends: Early spring (March–April)

 

During this time, you’ll notice:

•    Slowed or halted growth

•    Traps turning black and dying back

•    The plant becoming smaller and more compact

 

This is all completely normal.

 

How to Care for Dormant Plants Indoors

 

If your plant lives indoors year-round, you’ll need to simulate winter conditions:

•    Keep cool: Move to a cooler spot, ideally 2–10°C (35–50°F) — an unheated garage, porch, or even the fridge (yes, really!) in a plastic bag with damp sphagnum moss.

•    Reduce watering: Keep the soil damp, not wet. Water only when the top starts to dry.

•    No feeding or repotting — the plant isn’t actively growing.

 

For outdoor plants in New Brunswick, they can stay outside if protected from deep freezes. A cold frame or unheated greenhouse works great.

 

Waking Up in Spring

 

As daylight increases and temperatures warm, you’ll start to see new leaves or traps emerge. At this point:

•    Move the plant back to a sunny location.

•    Resume regular watering.

•    Begin feeding again once new traps are fully formed.

 

Tip: Trim off any blackened leaves in early spring to make room for healthy new growth.

 

Skipping dormancy can weaken or even kill species that depend on it. But when you do it right, your plant will come back stronger, hungrier, and ready to grow!

What NOT to Do: Common Mistakes to Avoid

Caring for carnivorous plants is a lot easier once you understand what not to do. Most first-time plant parents don’t kill their plants with neglect — they kill them with kindness or confusion.

 

So here’s your quick guide to the most common mistakes (and how to dodge them):

Using Tap Water

 

Tap water contains minerals, chlorine, and other chemicals that build up in the soil and can cause root burn or even kill your plant over time.

 

Use distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water only.

Skipping Dormancy (for Species That Need It)

 

Venus flytraps and Sarracenia need a winter rest. If you keep them warm and under bright light all winter, they can weaken or die.

 

Let them rest in a cool, dim place for 3 months each year.

Using the Wrong Soil

 

Regular potting mix is a death sentence for carnivorous plants. It’s too rich in nutrients and retains water differently.

 

Always use a nutrient-free mix like 50/50 peat moss and perlite.

Triggering the Traps for Fun

 

It’s super tempting to poke a Venus flytrap to watch it close. But every time it snaps shut, it uses a lot of energy — and if there’s no food inside, it’s wasted.

 

Only trigger traps when feeding, and let the plant do the rest.

Not Enough Light

 

Most carnivorous plants are light-hungry. Without enough sunlight or artificial light, traps will grow weak, small, or discolored.

 

Give them 6–8 hours of direct sun or use a full-spectrum grow light for best results.

Feeding Human Food

 

Cheese, steak, hamburger bits — they’re all a huge no-no. Carnivorous plants are built to digest insects, not cooked or fatty foods. Meat will rot, attract mold, and potentially kill the trap.

 

Stick to small insects — dried or live.

Overfeeding or Overwatering

 

More bugs doesn’t mean faster growth. Overfeeding can rot traps. Constant soaking can lead to root rot, especially in cooler months.

 

Feed occasionally, water correctly, and observe your plant.

These mistakes are easy to make — especially when you're excited. But now that you know what to watch for, you’ll be ahead of the curve and on your way to raising a thriving carnivorous collection.

Pro Tips to Help You Succeed

Once you've nailed the basics — light, water, soil, feeding, and rest — these extra tips can make caring for your carnivorous plant even more rewarding. They’ll also help you avoid setbacks and keep your plant looking its best.

Boost Humidity the Easy Way

Many carnivorous plants thrive in higher humidity, especially tropical species like Nepenthes and some sundews.

 

Try this:

•    Place your pot on a pebble tray filled with water (just make sure the pot isn’t sitting in the water unless you’re using the tray watering method).

•    Group plants together to create a micro-humidity zone.

•    Use a humidifier nearby during winter months if your air gets dry.

 

A small digital hygrometer can help you track the room’s humidity — aim for 50–70%.

 

Mist Gently (Sometimes)

•    Sundews especially benefit from occasional misting to help maintain their dewy appearance.

•    Don’t mist Venus flytraps — it’s not necessary and can cause mold if air circulation is low.

 

Inspect for Pests

Even bug-eating plants can fall victim to pests like:

•    Aphids

•    Spider mites

•    Fungus gnats (ironically)

 

Check leaves and traps weekly. If you spot issues, gently wipe leaves or use neem oil or insecticidal soap, applied sparingly.

 

Clean Up Dead Traps or Leaves

As traps die off, they can turn black and decay. This is normal, but too many dead parts can encourage mold or fungal growth.

 

Use clean scissors to snip dead leaves at the base. It keeps your plant tidy and healthy.

 

Keep a Plant Journal

It might sound nerdy (and it kind of is), but keeping a little journal or phone note about:

•    Watering dates

•    Feeding days

•    Repotting history

•    Dormancy cycles

 

…helps you track what works and what your plant needs over time. You’ll quickly become an expert in your plant’s unique habits.

 

Document Your Growth

Take progress photos! You’ll be amazed how much your plant changes month to month — especially after winter dormancy.

 

These small habits will help you not only care for your carnivorous plant — but enjoy the process and notice the subtle rhythms of how it grows and thrives.

You’ve Got This — And We’ve Got You

Caring for carnivorous houseplants isn’t about perfection — it’s about observation, patience, and knowing just a few key things (which you now do!). Whether you’re drawn to the snapping jaws of a Venus flytrap or the delicate sparkle of a sundew, these plants can absolutely thrive in your home with the right care.

 

So go ahead — take the leap. You don’t need a green thumb or a greenhouse. All you need is a sunny spot, the right water, and a little curiosity.

 

And remember: if you ever have questions, need supplies, or want to meet more fascinating plants, Scott’s Nursery in Lincoln, NB is here to help you every step of the way.

 

Happy growing — and don’t forget to feed the plants (just not steak).

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